Guide · Updated 30 April 2026
6 min read

Module 2 Show-Me Tell-Me Questions: Bike-Specific Guide

Two questions about your bike. One asked at the centre before you ride out, one asked while you are stopped during the ride. Get either wrong and that is one minor fault on the marking sheet. Most candidates pass them on a coin-flip basis, but they are worth twenty minutes of preparation given the upside.

#How the questions work

The Module 2 show-me tell-me set is bike-specific and shorter than the car version. There are two questions in total: one tell-me (asked at the centre before you set off) and one show-me (asked during the ride at a stop). A wrong answer on either is one minor fault. Both wrong is still one minor fault, not two. The structure is similar to the car test show-me tell-me but the questions are about bike-specific systems.

Tell-me means explaining how you would do something. Show-me means actually doing it. So a tell-me question asks "how would you check your tyre pressures" and you describe the procedure. A show-me asks "show me how you would check the horn works" and you actually demonstrate.

#The full bike question set

The DVSA publishes the question pool. The set covers chain tension, tyre tread and pressure, brake fluid, brake operation, lights and indicators, horn, oil level and engine cut-off. There are around 12 to 15 questions in total in the pool. The examiner picks two on the day, randomly. Knowing the full set means you can answer any combination.

  • Tell me how you would check the chain tension
  • Tell me how you would check tyre pressures
  • Tell me how you would check tyre tread is legal
  • Tell me how you would check brake fluid level
  • Tell me how you would check engine oil level
  • Tell me how you would check the chain is properly lubricated
  • Show me how you would check the front brake works
  • Show me how you would check the rear brake works
  • Show me how you would check the horn
  • Show me how you would check the lights and indicators
  • Show me how you would check the engine cut-out switch
  • Show me how you would check the headlight high-beam works

#Chain tension

Tell me how you would check the chain tension. Answer: locate the chain on the lower run between the front and rear sprocket. Push it up and down with a finger. The free play (slack) should be in the range specified in the owners manual, typically 25 to 35 millimetres for most modern bikes. The chain should not be too tight (which damages the gearbox bearings) or too loose (which can derail the chain). Check at multiple points as you push the bike forward, because chains stretch unevenly.

A good answer also mentions: do not check on a centre stand if it puts the chain under unusual tension; check on the side stand or with the bike upright on its wheels. Mention chain lubrication while you are at it as a related check.

#Tyre pressures and tread

Tell me how you would check tyre pressures. Answer: use a pressure gauge against the tyre valve when the tyre is cold (so before riding, not after a 20-mile run). Compare the reading to the recommended pressure on a sticker on the bike (often on the swing arm or under the seat) or in the owners manual. Adjust if needed. Mention the difference for solo and two-up riding (rear pressure usually a few psi higher with a pillion).

Tell me how you would check tyre tread is legal. Answer: the legal minimum is 1 millimetre across the central three-quarters of the tyre and around the entire circumference, on bikes over 50cc. Use a tread depth gauge or check the tread wear indicators (small bars in the grooves; when the tread is level with these, the tyre is at the limit). Mention checking for cuts, bulges and uneven wear at the same time.

#Brake fluid and brakes

Tell me how you would check brake fluid. Answer: locate the brake fluid reservoirs (one for the front brake, usually on the right handlebar; one for the rear, often near the rear master cylinder). Look at the level marks on the side of the reservoir. The level should sit between the minimum and maximum marks. If low, top up with the correct DOT specification (DOT 4 is most common, check the cap). Note that low brake fluid is sometimes a sign of brake pad wear, so mention that as a related check.

Show me how you would check the front brake works. Push the bike forward gently while pulling the front brake. The bike should stop and the front should dip slightly as the suspension compresses. Show me the rear brake. Same idea, but push the rear brake pedal with your foot. The bike should stop and stay stopped.

#Lights, indicators and horn

Show me how you would check the horn. Press the horn button. The horn should sound. Easy.

Show me how you would check the lights and indicators. Switch on the ignition and the headlight (most bikes have an automatic headlight that comes on with the engine). Walk round and verify front and rear bulbs are working. Switch on each indicator (left and right) and check the corresponding bulb flashes. Brake light: press the front brake lever and the rear brake pedal in turn, each should activate the rear brake light. Show the high-beam by flicking the high-beam switch and confirming the bulb works.

#Engine cut-out and oil

Show me how you would check the engine cut-out switch. With the engine running, flick the cut-out switch (usually on the right handlebar near the throttle) to the off position. The engine should stop. Switch it back to on. The engine restarts when you press the starter again. Quick demonstration.

Tell me how you would check the engine oil level. With the bike upright and the engine cold, look at the oil sight glass on the right side of the engine (or remove the dipstick if your bike has one). The level should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If low, top up with the correct grade of oil specified in the owners manual. Check after the engine has been off for a few minutes so all the oil has drained back to the sump.

#How to handle the question on the day

Three rules. First, if you do not know the answer, say so honestly. Examiners prefer "I am not sure of the exact procedure" over a confident wrong answer. They will mark the fault and move on. Second, do not over-explain. A clear three-sentence answer is better than a five-minute monologue that includes wrong details. Third, if it is a show-me question, actually show. Do not describe the action verbally; perform it. The examiner is watching, not listening.

For tell-me answers, structure helps. Start with the location, then the procedure, then the standard or specification. So for tyre pressure: where is the gauge, how do you use it, what is the pressure compared against. That structure covers the marking criteria reliably.

Frequently asked questions

How many show-me tell-me questions are there on Module 2?

Two in total. One tell-me asked at the centre before you ride, one show-me asked during the ride while you are stopped.

What happens if I get a question wrong?

One minor fault. Both wrong is also one minor fault, not two. So the questions cannot directly fail the test, but they contribute to the 15-minor cap.

Can I look up an answer if I do not know it?

No. The examiner asks the question and expects an answer based on what you know. Saying "I am not sure" is fine and gets a fault marked, but you cannot consult the manual or the bike during the test.

Do I need to know the exact tyre pressure for my bike?

You need to explain how you would check it (use a gauge, compare to spec). You do not need to recite the exact figure, but knowing it helps if asked.

Where is the show-me question asked?

During the ride, at a stop the examiner picks. Usually a quiet road or a layby. They will say "stop here, I have a question for you" through the radio, then ask the show-me when you are off the bike.

How can I prepare for these questions?

Read the full DVSA question pool, walk through each answer with the bike you will take the test on, and have a friend or instructor quiz you. Twenty minutes of focused prep is enough for most candidates.

Are the bike show-me tell-me questions different from car?

Yes. The bike set is shorter and covers bike-specific systems (chain, throttle, indicators on a bike). The car version covers wipers, demisters and fuel cap which are not relevant to bikes.

PassRates.uk Editorial

Independent UK driving test analytics, reviewed against the latest DVSA quarterly statistical release.

Published 30 April 2026Updated 30 April 2026Source DVSA · OGL v3.0

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